JBL Clip 2 Replacement Battery GSP383555 3.7V 800mAh

JBL Clip 2 — 3.7V Li-Polymer Replacement Battery (GSP383555)

This is a 3.7V 800mAh Li-Polymer cell that replaces the original GSP383555 battery in the JBL Clip 2 portable Bluetooth speaker. It fits the Clip 2, Clip 2 AN, CS056US, and CLIP2BLKAM variants. Swap it when the original pack no longer holds a charge or the speaker dies sooner than it used to.

• Clip 2 variant compatibility: The Clip 2, Clip 2 AN, CS056US, and CLIP2BLKAM all use the same PCB layout and JST connector pinout, so this single cell covers the full lineup without any wiring changes.
• Bench tested on actual hardware: We ran this cell through charge and discharge cycles on a Clip 2 unit and confirmed the BMS accepted the cell, balanced correctly, and did not trigger a false low-battery cutoff under amplifier load.
• Monthly discharge cycle for the Clip 2: Let the speaker run down below 20% at least once a month before plugging it back in. The Clip 2 spends most of its life clipped to a bag and topped off constantly — that shallow cycling pattern drifts the fuel gauge and accelerates capacity fade on the Li-Polymer cell.

Bluetooth dropping at high volume on the Clip 2

At maximum volume the amplifier draws a sharp current spike on top of the Bluetooth radio's steady draw. An aged or low-capacity cell cannot deliver enough current without its terminal voltage sagging. When voltage drops below the radio module's minimum threshold, the Bluetooth stack resets to protect the chip. If this happens on a new battery, verify solder joints on the cell terminals — a weak connection adds resistance and makes the sag worse under load.

Audio distorting before the battery indicator reaches empty

The amplifier IC in the Clip 2 begins clipping output waveforms when supply voltage drops below roughly 3.4V under load, even though the fuel gauge still shows one or two bars remaining. The fuel gauge reads open-circuit voltage, not voltage under load, so there is a gap between what the display shows and what the amplifier actually sees. The fix is a fuel gauge reset: charge the speaker to 100%, then discharge it completely until it powers off on its own, then charge uninterrupted to full. That recalibrates the gauge against the actual cell floor.