Black & Decker 499055-04 Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 3.6V
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Black & Decker 499055-04 Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 3.6V - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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Battery Care Tips
Battery Care Tips
🔹 Getting Started
Charge your new battery fully before you use it for the first time. Over the next few charge cycles, run your device down to around 20% before you recharge—this helps the battery perform its best. After that, charge whenever you need to.
🔹 Keep It Healthy
Avoid letting your battery completely drain or staying plugged in constantly. Both extremes wear it out faster. Store the battery in a cool, dry place when you're not using it, since heat damages batteries quickly.
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Delivery and Shipping
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Disclaimer
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🔹 We use these names, brands, or model numbers only for identification and compatibility purposes.
Black & Decker 499055-04 Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 3.6V - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Voltage
3.6V
Amp
2000mAh
Black & Decker KC9039 / KC9036 — 3.6V Ni-MH Replacement Battery (499055-04)
This is a 3.6V, 2000mAh Ni-MH battery pack for the Black & Decker KC9039 and KC9036 cordless drill/drivers. It replaces OEM part numbers 499055-04 and 3HR-4/5SC. Fits directly into the battery bay of both models with no modification.
- KC9039 and KC9036 compatibility: Both models run the same 3.6V power rail and use an identical battery housing geometry with the same terminal layout. The sub-C Ni-MH cell format and connector match across both platforms, so one part number covers both drills.
- Bench tested on actual hardware: We cycled this pack through charge and discharge on a KC9039 drill and monitored cell voltage across three full cycles. The pack accepted charge correctly from the standard Black & Decker charger and held voltage under torque load without mid-cycle dropout.
- Ni-MH break-in on this drill: On first use, run the drill at half load — light fastening work, not max-torque driving — for the first two cycles. Ni-MH cells at this voltage have a memory-sensitive charge profile, and shallow full-load cycling early on can reduce total usable capacity from the start.
Inrush spike tripping the protection circuit on trigger pull
When you pull the trigger on a cordless drill, the motor draws a short surge of current well above its running draw. On a 3.6V Ni-MH pack, this inrush spike can exceed the overcurrent threshold of the protection circuit if the cells are cold or not yet fully charged. The drill cuts out immediately at trigger pull — not under sustained load, but right at the start. Let the pack warm to room temperature and ensure it is fully charged before heavy use. A full charge brings cell impedance down and allows the pack to deliver the burst current the motor demands at startup.
Drill bogs down and loses torque partway through a fastening job
This happens when the battery voltage sags under sustained motor load — the cells can't maintain rail voltage as current draw climbs, so the drill slows or stalls mid-screw. On Ni-MH packs, this is often caused by high contact resistance at the battery terminals rather than a failing cell. Clean the battery contacts and the drill's terminal bay with a dry cloth or fine abrasive. If the sag continues after cleaning, check resting voltage with a multimeter — a healthy 3.6V Ni-MH pack should read 4.1–4.3V immediately after a full charge.
Compatible Models
Replaces Part Numbers
Technical Specifications
Product Highlights
- Brand: Black & Decker
- Manufacturer: CS
- Series: Standard
- Color: Green
- Product Type: Ni-MH
- Battery Type: Ni-MH
- Warranty: 12 Months
- Bulk Orders: sales@batteryweb.com
Frequently Asked Questions
My KC9039 drill cuts out the instant I pull the trigger — is the battery dead or is something else going on?
This is almost always an overcurrent trip, not a dead cell. The motor's startup inrush spike briefly exceeds what the protection circuit allows, and the pack shuts down before the drill even spins. It happens most often when the battery is cold or only partially charged — both conditions raise internal cell resistance and lower the trip threshold. Charge the pack fully, bring it to room temperature, then try again.
The charger ran through its cycle but the drill still feels weak — why did the pack take a full charge but not deliver full power?
Ni-MH cells that have been repeatedly shallow-cycled lose accessible capacity even though they accept a full charge. The charger sees the cells reach peak voltage and terminates, but the usable capacity between that peak and the cutoff voltage has shrunk. Run two full charge-discharge cycles — use the drill until it noticeably slows, then charge fully each time — to recondition the cells. If the pack still sags under load after two cycles, check resting voltage after charge; it should read 4.1–4.3V.
The drill runs fine indoors but bogs badly when I use it in a cold garage — what's happening?
Ni-MH internal resistance rises sharply below about 10°C, which means the cells can't sustain rail voltage under the motor's load at low temperatures. The drill slows or stalls under torque that it handles easily at room temperature. Warm the battery pack indoors for 20–30 minutes before taking it into a cold space. Cold-weather bogging is a cell chemistry response, not a fault — resting voltage at 4.1–4.3V after a fresh charge in a warm environment confirms the pack itself is fine.
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