Nintendo Mario Kart Live HAC-038 Compatible Battery 3.7V 1750mAh
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Nintendo Mario Kart Live HAC-038 Compatible Battery 3.7V 1750mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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Battery Care Tips
🔹 Getting Started
Charge your new battery fully before you use it for the first time. Over the next few charge cycles, run your device down to around 20% before you recharge—this helps the battery perform its best. After that, charge whenever you need to.
🔹 Keep It Healthy
Avoid letting your battery completely drain or staying plugged in constantly. Both extremes wear it out faster. Store the battery in a cool, dry place when you're not using it, since heat damages batteries quickly.
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Disclaimer
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Nintendo Mario Kart Live HAC-038 Compatible Battery 3.7V 1750mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Voltage
3.7V
Amp
1750mAh
Nintendo Mario Kart Live Home Circuit — 3.7V Li-ion Replacement Battery (HAC-038)
This 3.7V 1750mAh Li-ion cell replaces the original battery in the Nintendo Mario Kart Live Home Circuit physical kart controller. The kart is the camera-equipped car unit that drives around your real floor while the game runs on a Nintendo Switch. Without a working cell, the kart won't move and the AR session can't start.
- Mario Kart Live Home Circuit kart compatibility: Both the Luigi and Mario kart units use the same HAC-038 cell with identical voltage rails and connector orientation. The BMS in each kart communicates charge state back to the Switch dock over USB-C, so the replacement cell must match the 3.7V nominal spec exactly — which this one does.
- Bench tested on actual hardware: We cycled this cell through charge and discharge on the kart's own BMS. The protection circuit triggered correctly at low-voltage cutoff, and the charge IC accepted the cell without flagging a fault on the Switch's charging screen.
- First-session calibration after swap: After fitting this cell, run one complete play session to automatic kart shutdown before recharging. The kart's fuel gauge IC sets its empty reference point against the first full discharge cycle — skipping this step causes the battery indicator on Switch to read inaccurately for several sessions.
Kart battery indicator jumping around after cell replacement
The fuel gauge IC inside the kart learns discharge behaviour by tracking voltage drop over time. A new cell has a slightly different discharge curve than the worn cell it replaced, so the IC's stored model no longer matches reality. The result is a percentage reading that jumps — often from 60% straight to 10% with no warning. Three to five full discharge-and-charge cycles let the IC recalibrate its curve to the new cell. After that, the indicator tracks correctly and low-battery warnings arrive at the right point.
Kart stops responding mid-race before battery indicator hits empty
The kart runs its camera, motors, and wireless radio simultaneously during a race. That combined draw creates short current spikes that push the cell voltage below the BMS cutoff threshold — even when the displayed percentage looks healthy. An aged or partially degraded cell hits this sag point earlier because its internal resistance has risen. A fresh cell at 3.7V nominal handles those spikes without tripping the BMS, so mid-race dropouts stop. If dropouts persist after fitting this cell, check that the connector is fully seated — a loose contact raises effective resistance and mimics a weak cell.
Compatible Models
Replaces Part Numbers
Technical Specifications
Product Highlights
- Brand: Nintendo
- Manufacturer: CS
- Series: Standard
- Color: Black
- Product Type: Li-ion
- Battery Type: Li-ion
- Warranty: 12 Months
- Bulk Orders: sales@batteryweb.com
Frequently Asked Questions
The battery indicator on my Switch shows the kart at 50% and then the kart just cuts out — what's causing that?
The kart's BMS trips on voltage sag, not on the percentage shown on screen. When the camera, drive motors, and wireless radio all draw current at the same moment, the cell voltage drops sharply below the cutoff threshold even though the fuel gauge still reads mid-range. A degraded original cell can't handle those combined current spikes — a fresh cell at full 3.7V nominal rating can. If the new cell still causes cutouts, reseat the battery connector fully; a loose contact raises resistance and recreates the same voltage sag.
My kart charges for the normal amount of time but play time is noticeably shorter than it used to be — is the replacement cell faulty?
New Li-ion cells don't deliver their full rated capacity immediately out of the box. The first two to three discharge-and-charge cycles condition the cell's electrode structure and bring it up toward its rated 1750mAh. Run the kart to automatic shutdown and recharge fully each session for the first few sessions — play time improves noticeably by cycle three to five. If it hasn't improved by cycle five, check that the charge contact is clean and making full connection.
After fitting the new battery, the percentage on the Switch screen jumps from 70% straight to 5% with no warning — how do I fix that?
The kart's fuel gauge IC builds a discharge model by tracking how voltage drops over time. The old, worn cell had a specific curve baked into that model — the new cell's curve is different, so the readings are mismatched. Run the kart from a full charge to automatic shutdown without interrupting the session, then charge fully again. Repeat this two to three times and the IC will recalibrate its model to the new cell's curve, putting the percentage jumps to a stop.
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