Sony LIP1522 DualShock 4 Replacement Battery 3.7V 1800mAh
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Sony LIP1522 DualShock 4 Replacement Battery 3.7V 1800mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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Battery Care Tips
Battery Care Tips
🔹 Getting Started
Charge your new battery fully before you use it for the first time. Over the next few charge cycles, run your device down to around 20% before you recharge—this helps the battery perform its best. After that, charge whenever you need to.
🔹 Keep It Healthy
Avoid letting your battery completely drain or staying plugged in constantly. Both extremes wear it out faster. Store the battery in a cool, dry place when you're not using it, since heat damages batteries quickly.
Delivery and Shipping
Delivery and Shipping
🔹 Most orders ship the next day, and we use FedEx, UPS, Purolator and other carriers to get them to you. Lithium batteries have to ship by ground only, not air or USPS. Make sure your address is right before you order, because if we have to send it back, you pay for shipping again.
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Disclaimer
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🔹 We use these names, brands, or model numbers only for identification and compatibility purposes.
Sony LIP1522 DualShock 4 Replacement Battery 3.7V 1800mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Voltage
3.7V
Amp
1800mAh
Sony DualShock 4 Wireless Controller — 3.7V Li-ion Replacement Battery (LIP1522)
This 3.7V, 1800mAh Li-ion cell replaces the original LIP1522 battery inside the Sony DualShock 4 Wireless Controller. It fits CUH-ZCT1H, CUH-ZCT1U, CUH-ZCT1E, and three additional regional variants. Capacity is rated at 6.66Wh — matching the stock cell specification.
- CUH-ZCT1 series compatibility: All CUH-ZCT1 variants share the same battery bay dimensions, connector pinout, and charge IC handshake. The LIP1522 footprint — 51.40 × 34.00 × 9.20mm — fits without modification across every regional SKU in this series.
- Bench tested on actual hardware: We ran this cell through a full charge and wireless play cycle on a CUH-ZCT1U unit. The charge IC accepted the cell without fault flags, the BMS held voltage above cutoff under simultaneous rumble and wireless load, and the controller maintained stable connection throughout.
- Fuel gauge conditioning after swap: Run one complete wireless session to automatic controller shutdown before recharging. The DualShock 4 fuel gauge IC sets its empty reference point against the first full discharge cycle — skipping this step causes the battery indicator to read inaccurately for the first several sessions.
DualShock 4 fuel gauge jumping or freezing after a cell replacement
The PS4 tracks battery state using a coulomb counter inside the controller, not a simple voltage lookup. When a new cell goes in, that counter holds stale data calibrated to the old, degraded cell. The indicator will jump, freeze, or show full when it isn't. One complete discharge cycle — from full charge to automatic shutoff — forces the IC to relearn the new cell's discharge curve and reset the reference points correctly.
Controller disconnecting before the battery indicator hits empty
The DualShock 4 wireless radio and dual rumble motors draw simultaneously under heavy gameplay, creating brief current spikes that can pull cell voltage below the BMS cutoff threshold — even when the indicator still shows one or two bars. A new cell showing this behaviour is not defective; it needs conditioning. After three to five full charge and discharge cycles, internal resistance drops and the cell sustains load voltage above the cutoff point. If disconnects persist after five cycles, check that the battery connector is fully seated — a partial connection raises contact resistance and worsens voltage sag under load.
Compatible Models
Replaces Part Numbers
Technical Specifications
Product Highlights
- Brand: Sony
- Manufacturer: CS
- Series: Standard
- Color: Black
- Product Type: Li-ion
- Battery Type: Li-ion
- Warranty: 12 Months
- Bulk Orders: sales@batteryweb.com
Frequently Asked Questions
My DualShock 4 shows full battery then drops to one bar mid-session after swapping this in — is the cell faulty?
The cell is almost certainly fine. The fuel gauge IC inside the controller is still using calibration data from the old, worn-out cell — it doesn't automatically reset when a new cell is installed. Run one complete wireless play session from a full charge through to automatic controller shutoff without recharging partway. That first full discharge cycle sets the empty reference point for the coulomb counter and clears the erratic readings.
The controller cuts out during intense gameplay even though the battery indicator still shows charge — what's causing that?
Heavy simultaneous load from the wireless radio and both rumble motors creates current spikes that briefly pull cell voltage below the BMS cutoff threshold. A new cell has higher internal resistance than a fully conditioned one, which makes the voltage dip deeper under that combined load. Run three to five full charge-to-shutoff cycles — internal resistance falls with each cycle and the voltage stays above the cutoff point under peak draw. Also press the battery connector firmly into its socket; a loose seating adds contact resistance and amplifies the sag.
The replacement cell seems to charge quickly and run out faster than expected — is 1800mAh the actual capacity?
Yes — 1800mAh at 3.7V is the rated capacity, matching the original LIP1522 spec. New lithium cells don't deliver their full rated capacity on the first few cycles; the electrolyte needs time to fully wet the electrode surfaces. Expect noticeably shorter sessions for the first three to five cycles, after which the cell reaches close to its rated 6.66Wh output. Do not judge capacity until at least five full discharge cycles are complete.
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