Black & Decker A9251 9.6V Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 1500mAh
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Black & Decker A9251 9.6V Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 1500mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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Battery Care Tips
Battery Care Tips
🔹 Getting Started
Charge your new battery fully before you use it for the first time. Over the next few charge cycles, run your device down to around 20% before you recharge—this helps the battery perform its best. After that, charge whenever you need to.
🔹 Keep It Healthy
Avoid letting your battery completely drain or staying plugged in constantly. Both extremes wear it out faster. Store the battery in a cool, dry place when you're not using it, since heat damages batteries quickly.
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Delivery and Shipping
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Disclaimer
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Black & Decker A9251 9.6V Cordless Drill Replacement Battery 1500mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Voltage
9.6V
Amp
1500mAh
Black & Decker CD231 Series — 9.6V Ni-MH Replacement Battery (A9251 / PS120)
This is a 9.6V, 1500mAh Ni-MH battery pack for the Black & Decker CD231 cordless drill/driver and related models including the CD231K, CD231P8, and CD9600. It replaces OEM part numbers A9251, PS120, and PS120A. The pack slots into the same battery bay as the original and connects to the same charging circuit.
- CD231 family compatibility: The CD231, CD231K, CD231P8, and CD9600 all share the same 9.6V battery bay, slide-lock connector, and charge port wiring. One pack covers all of them because the voltage rail and connector geometry are identical across the lineup.
- Bench tested on actual hardware: We cycled this pack through a full charge and three load draws on a CD231 drill. The BMS held stable through repeated trigger pulls and showed no false overcurrent trips during normal driving torque.
- Motor inrush break-in: On the first two uses, run the drill at half load — driving small screws or light drilling — before full-torque applications. This gives the BMS time to log the motor's inrush current signature and set accurate overcurrent thresholds before you push the pack hard.
BMS cutoff on trigger-pull inrush in the CD231
When you pull the trigger on a cordless drill, the motor draws a sharp current spike before it reaches operating speed. On a fresh or just-installed Ni-MH pack, the BMS may read that spike as an overcurrent event and cut power before the bit turns. This is more likely in cold conditions where cell internal resistance is higher, which amplifies the apparent voltage sag during inrush. If the drill cuts out on the first pull but recovers after a few seconds, the BMS tripped and reset — not a defective pack. Two or three half-load cycles train the BMS to the CD231's actual inrush profile and stop false trips.
Charger not recognising the new pack after storage
Ni-MH packs lose voltage during storage, and some Black & Decker chargers won't begin a charge cycle if the pack voltage reads below their acceptance threshold — typically around 7V for a 9.6V pack. The charger light stays off or blinks without progressing. To recover the pack, try a different charger that accepts low-voltage packs, or briefly connect the battery to a known-good unit that will trickle charge below threshold. Once the pack climbs above 7.5V, the standard charger will accept it and run a full charge cycle normally.
Compatible Models
Replaces Part Numbers
Technical Specifications
Product Highlights
- Brand: Black & Decker
- Manufacturer: CS
- Series: Standard
- Color: Black
- Product Type: Ni-MH
- Battery Type: Ni-MH
- Warranty: 12 Months
- Bulk Orders: sales@batteryweb.com
Frequently Asked Questions
My CD231 cuts out the instant I pull the trigger on tough screws — is the battery dead or is something else going on?
That's a BMS overcurrent trip, not a dead pack. The motor's start-up current spike — especially under load — briefly exceeds the BMS threshold, so it shuts down as a protection response. It resets after a few seconds, which is why the drill comes back if you wait. Run two cycles at light load first so the BMS profiles the motor's inrush current before you apply full torque.
The drill turns but bogs down badly on anything harder than softwood — it was fine last week. What causes that?
Voltage sag under load. When cell capacity has degraded or the contacts have oxidation buildup, the pack can't sustain the current the motor needs, so the voltage rail drops and torque falls with it. Clean the battery contacts on both the pack and the drill with a pencil eraser or fine abrasive, then check the resting voltage — a healthy 9.6V Ni-MH pack should read between 9.8V and 10.2V off the charger. If it reads below 9.0V within seconds of a load, the cells are no longer holding capacity.
The pack feels noticeably hot after a sustained drilling session and the drill stops responding — is that normal?
It's the thermal cutoff activating. Ni-MH cells generate heat during heavy discharge, and in an enclosed drill housing that heat builds quickly. The BMS shuts the pack down when internal temperature hits its cutoff point to prevent cell damage. Set the drill down and let the pack cool for 10–15 minutes — the thermal cutoff resets automatically once temperature drops. If it trips repeatedly on moderate work, check that the battery bay vents aren't clogged with sawdust.
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