Nintendo Wii Remote NC-WR01BA Replacement Battery 2.4V 400mAh
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Nintendo Wii Remote NC-WR01BA Replacement Battery 2.4V 400mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
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Battery Care Tips
🔹 Getting Started
Charge your new battery fully before you use it for the first time. Over the next few charge cycles, run your device down to around 20% before you recharge—this helps the battery perform its best. After that, charge whenever you need to.
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Nintendo Wii Remote NC-WR01BA Replacement Battery 2.4V 400mAh - is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Voltage
2.4V
Amp
400mAh
Nintendo Wii Remote — 2.4V Ni-MH Replacement Battery (NC-WR01BA)
This is a 2.4V, 400mAh Ni-MH rechargeable battery for the Nintendo Wii Remote controller. It fits the standard Wii Remote (Part No: NC-WR01BA) and restores wireless operation without replacing the whole controller. Voltage and cell size match the original specification exactly.
- Wii Remote platform fit: The Wii Remote uses a 2.4V Ni-MH cell pack with a specific connector and BMS handshake tied to the console's charge management circuit. Swapping to a mismatched chemistry or voltage breaks that handshake and triggers charge refusal at the dock.
- Bench tested on actual hardware: We cycled this cell through the Wii Remote's charge IC and confirmed the BMS accepted the cell without fault flags. Discharge under combined wireless and rumble load held voltage above the cutoff threshold across the full cycle.
- First-cycle calibration on Wii Remote: Run one complete wireless play session to automatic cutoff before recharging. The Wii Remote's fuel gauge IC sets its empty reference point against the first full discharge — skipping this step causes the battery indicator to read inaccurately for several sessions.
Why the Wii Remote fuel gauge jumps or reads wrong after a cell swap
The Wii Remote uses a simple coulomb-counting fuel gauge IC that tracks charge relative to a stored empty reference. When you install a new cell, that reference no longer matches the new cell's actual discharge curve. The gauge can show full, then jump to one bar, then back up — all without a fault. One complete discharge-to-cutoff cycle rewrites the empty reference and the gauge stabilises. After that first cycle, readings return to normal.
Wii Remote disconnecting before the battery indicator reaches empty
The Wii Remote draws current from two loads simultaneously during active play — the wireless radio and the rumble motor. That combined draw causes a brief voltage sag that can dip below the controller's disconnect threshold even when the fuel gauge still shows charge remaining. A new Ni-MH cell needs three to five charge cycles to reach rated capacity and reduce internal resistance. Until then, voltage sag under peak load is higher than normal. Fully cycle the battery three times and the sag drops — the premature disconnect stops.
Compatible Models
Replaces Part Numbers
Technical Specifications
Product Highlights
- Brand: Nintendo
- Manufacturer: CS
- Series: Standard
- Color: White
- Product Type: Ni-MH
- Battery Type: Ni-MH
- Warranty: 12 Months
- Bulk Orders: sales@batteryweb.com
Frequently Asked Questions
The Wii Remote battery indicator shows two bars, then the controller just disconnects mid-game — is the cell faulty?
Not faulty — it's a voltage sag issue. When the wireless radio and rumble motor fire at the same time, the combined current draw causes a short voltage dip that triggers the controller's disconnect threshold before the fuel gauge reaches empty. New Ni-MH cells have slightly higher internal resistance out of the box, which makes the sag worse. Run three full charge-discharge cycles and the resistance drops — the premature disconnects stop.
The battery indicator is bouncing all over the place after I fitted this cell — it goes from full to one bar and back again.
That's the fuel gauge IC losing its reference point, not a defective cell. The Wii Remote's gauge tracks charge by coulomb counting against a stored empty reference calibrated to the old cell. A new cell has a different discharge curve, so the numbers stop making sense. Run one complete play session to automatic controller cutoff without recharging partway — that rewrites the empty reference. After that first full discharge, the gauge reads accurately.
Play time feels noticeably shorter than with the original battery — did I get a dud?
New Ni-MH cells ship partially discharged and need conditioning cycles to reach rated capacity. For the first three to five cycles, usable capacity runs below the rated 400mAh because the cell's crystalline structure hasn't fully activated. Charge fully, play to cutoff, repeat. By cycle four or five, capacity reaches the rated figure and play time matches what you'd expect from a fresh OEM cell.
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