60V GreenWorks Leaf Blower Replacement Battery 3000mAh Li-ion

My GreenWorks blower cuts out when I hit the turbo button — is the battery dying or is something else wrong?

Turbo mode spikes current draw hard, and a battery with even slight capacity loss will hit its overcurrent protection threshold and shut the tool down before a healthy pack would. This isn't always a dead battery — it can be a marginal cell group that holds up under normal load but collapses under peak demand. Put the battery on the charger immediately after a cutout and check whether the charge indicator shows near-full or starts cycling through fault states. If it accepts a full charge but cuts out again under turbo within a few seconds, the pack has cell imbalance and won't recover.

The blower runs fine for a bit then starts losing power gradually — new battery did the same thing as the old one

On 60V Li-ion packs in high-draw tools, gradual power drop mid-session usually points to the battery management system throttling output as cell temperature climbs, not a fault with the pack itself. The GD60AB's brushless motor is efficient but sustained full-speed use in warm conditions still generates enough heat to trigger thermal derating before the cells are actually depleted. Let the battery rest for ten minutes off the tool and check whether full power returns — if it does, thermal derating is the cause, not a defective pack. Running the blower in shorter bursts with the battery seated loosely enough to allow airflow around the terminals will delay the onset.

Greenworks 60V charger is solid green but battery won't power the blower at all

A solid green light means the charger detected a full voltage state, but it doesn't confirm cell balance or that the pack can deliver current under load — those are different things. A battery that's been sitting deeply discharged for weeks can sometimes recover enough voltage to fool the charger into showing full while still being unable to sustain load current. Pull the battery, wait two minutes, reseat it in the charger, and watch whether the light goes straight to green or cycles through amber first — if it jumps immediately to green without any charge phase, the pack recovered surface voltage only. Then test pack voltage directly at the terminals with a multimeter: a genuinely full 60V Li-ion pack should read between 63V and 67V; anything below 60V means the cells didn't actually charge.