Honeywell 20128LEM LED Light Compatible Battery 4.8V 1500mAh

Honeywell 20128LEM / DLE-DLQ023 Series — 4.8V Ni-MH Replacement Battery

This is a 4.8V, 1500mAh Ni-MH replacement battery for Honeywell LED work lights and portable emergency lighting units. It fits the 20128LEM, 307254, 6685004, and DLE/DLQ023 series, plus three additional Honeywell light models sharing the same battery bay. Voltage and cell count match the original pack exactly.

• Shared fit across the 20128LEM family: These Honeywell light models all run the same four-cell 4.8V Ni-MH configuration with an identical connector and housing footprint. The BMS in each unit expects the same charge profile, so one battery spec covers the full range without any modification.
• Bench tested on actual hardware: We cycled this battery through charge and discharge on the 20128LEM platform. The BMS accepted the cell and completed a full charge cycle without false-low cutoff or thermal fault flags.
• First-cycle LED driver calibration: Run the light on medium brightness for the first full charge-discharge cycle. The LED driver adjusts its current output against the actual cell capacity on that first pass — skipping straight to maximum brightness before the driver has calibrated can cause a brief dimming period in early cycles.

LED work light dimming before the battery indicator shows low

On Ni-MH packs, the LED driver starts reducing current draw before the BMS trips the low-battery cutoff. This is intentional — the driver detects voltage sag under load and backs off to protect the LEDs from undervoltage flicker. The light dims noticeably while the battery indicator still reads mid-range. This is normal cell behaviour, not a fault with the replacement pack.

Light not reaching full brightness after installing new battery

A new Ni-MH cell ships at a partial state of charge. If the terminal voltage sits below the LED driver's minimum input threshold, the driver limits output to avoid unstable current regulation. The light will appear dimmer than the original pack even though nothing is wrong. Put the battery through a full charge cycle first — the driver needs to see at least 4.6V at the terminals before it opens full current to the LED array.